The Landing at Ocean Beach

Ocean Beach's newest restaurant offers a delightful waterside dining experience at reasonable prices (well, reasonable for Ocean Beach). A friend and I chose it for a light lunch on a perfectly sunny beach afternoon. (We'd already overindulged on seafood bisque and fried flounder wraps at Nicky's Clam Bar before taking the ferry, so the giant pancakes at Rachel's weren't an option. Plus, we wanted to enjoy a view of the bay.)

A classic Caesar with grilled salmon sounded good, but I ended up with a sweet-savory green salad with lots of crumbled Maytag blue cheese, chunks of Granny Smith apple, and crispy candied walnuts in a sweet poppy seed dressing. My friend opted for the mussels provencal; two thick slices of well-buttered, grilled garlic bread lay aside a healthy portion of mussels in a light garlic-wine sauce with diced tomatoes.

If my appetite had allowed, I would've tried the fried scallop sandwich or the fish and chips (only $12). Next time I visit Ocean Beach, I will try to resist the allure of Nicky's so that I can wait to eat at The Landing!

The Landing at Ocean Beach: 620 Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island (631) 583-5800.

Winter Dining Deals in the Hamptons

This past weekend, my companion and I were reading the New York Times while taking the LIRR to East Hampton (we are big fans of off-season travel). I opened to the Escapes section and coincidentally happened upon the "Hamptons Before The Crowds" article. It mentioned winter deals at several lodging options (but conspicuously omitted the Mill House Inn, which is where my companion and I like to stay... on this visit, we had a great rate on a suite with a king bed, flat-screen TV, Serenity air jacuzzi, flat-screen TV, dual-head shower, and, of course, that famous breakfast).

It just so happens that the winter dining deals in the Hamptons are just as impressive as the lodging deals! Prix-fixe menus under $30 abound, especially on weekdays. My companion and sampled three of them during our stay.

We were most impressed by the $25 (three courses, or two courses with a glass of wine) prix-fixe at the 1770 House (29 Newtown Lane, East Hampton, 631-324-6300). In this historic dining room, the menu is divided into "From The Sea" and "From The Farm" sections. We ordered the organic smoked salmon tartare with potato crisps, an heirloom beet salad sprinkled with candied walnuts, perfectly seared diver scallops, and fettucini with black truffles, trumpet mushrooms, peas and Parmesan - the fettucini with Maine lobster was not available. The molten chocolate souffle cake with chunky peanut butter gelato is a must-try!

Nick and Toni's (136 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-3550) serves a special $30 Film and Food menu, which includes a ticket to the movies! My companion went with the $35 prix-fixe, choosing a chopped radish and cucumber salad, skirt steak on a bed of white beans, and chocolate custard. I ordered the creamy fennel soup special, a wonderful rigatoni with cauliflower, breadcrumbs and hot chili, and the poached pear hazelnut crisp. The next evening, we found ourselves at Della Femina (99 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-329-6666), which is quite popular with wine lovers. Some nights feature a free glass of house red or white. A $25 prix-fixe is served Sunday through Thursday, while a $30 menu is served on Friday and from 5:30-6:30 on Saturdays. What I most remember from this evening, besides the copious amount of wine, is the flourless chocolate souffle cake (obviously, I can't get enough of this dessert).

Hamptons Restaurant Week is coming up (March 29-April 5), and the $24.95 menus look mighty enticing. If you decide to pay a visit to the East End, here's my lodging tip: make a reservation at the Mill House Inn (31 North Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-9766) and enjoy the Restaurant Week discounts: $25 off for one night, or a $50 per night discount on more than one night. (Super suites are discounted by $50 or $100.)

A Sweet Trip to Beacon, NY

Beacon, a sort of Williamsburg-on-the-Hudson, is known for its spectacular modern art museum and countless small galleries. It's also a great place to enjoy the fall foliage. Best of all, the town offers many opportunities for serious sugar shock!

Beacon is home to Dutchess County's oldest candy store, the Alps Sweet Shop (269 Main St., 845-831-8240). Alps sells all the old favorites like champagne truffles, fruit gels, almond turtles and licorice, but it's the Halloween candy that is truly impressive! Chocolate witches, jack-o-lanterns, bats, eyeballs, spiders, skulls and ghosts will delight your trick-or-treaters. If you like your sweets less macabre, treat yourself to one of Alps' amazing "Ultimate Apples." (Don't worry, they're not that virtuous - heavy layers of chocolate and caramel have robbed them of most nutritional content.)

After you've filled your goodie bag, go across the street to Max's on Main (46 Main St., 845-838-6297). There, you'll find two of the most decadent desserts known to man: the Fi-Doh-Doh (a blondie covered with vanilla ice cream, chocolate sauce, whipped cream, white chocolate and caramel glaze) and the Fi-Dah-Dah (the chocolate bundt cake variation).

The Upper Crust Cafe & Bakery is no more (it will soon be an upscale cafe), but HomeSpun Foods (232 Main St., 845-831-5096) is a wonderful stopover for pastry. Crumbly, buttery pear/raspberry jam scones, fig tarts, bread pudding and fresh-baked chocolate-chip cookies are some of the delights served at HomeSpun. Also, check out the small gift section; it features beautifully-designed Ludomar chocolate bars.

Now I've got to tell you about something really special: the artisanal popsicles at Zora Dora (201 Main St., 646-206-3982). Have you ever tried a vanilla-beet tie-dye popsicle? Or a chocolate-chipotle chunk? How about Italian coffee bean, or roasted bananas with saffron and pistachio (out of this world). Zora Dora, which uses Ronnybrook Dairy and local produce in its ices and creams, has been open since June. The store is already producing ice cream for restaurants all over Beacon and nearby Cold Spring.

So now your lips are chattering. Put down that popsicle, and before you get back on the train, warm up with a cup of cocoa at Muddy Cup (129 Main St., 845-831-1003). The cafe serves just about every variety imaginable, from cinnamon-chocolate to chocolate-cherry to peppermint patty cocoa.

(Note: Be advised that when visiting Beacon on a Monday, you won't be able to enjoy a pierogi at Marlena's, a pad thai at Sukhothai, or a cup of tea at The Cup & Saucer Tea Room. However, there are plenty of other goodies!)

Hideaway Restaurant

It's hard to believe that a place as idyllic as Ocean Beach exists. Spotless, carless and litter-free, this Fire Island village is kept that way through strict regulations - its popular nickname is the "Land Of No." (In 1977, two people were famously arrested for eating cookies outside.) But after dining at Hideaway Restaurant, I propose a new moniker for Ocean Beach: the "Land of Yes, Yes, Yes!" Craig Attwood (formerly of NYC's Patroon and Islip's The Gatsby) is the Hideaway's executive chef, and he presides over an inspired menu with lots of seafood and a few Asian touches. (NOTE: As of 2009, Mr. Attwood is no longer at the Hideaway.)

Like Ocean Beach's other waterfront restaurants (Maguire's and Matthew's), the Hideaway features an outdoor dining deck. But diners can also enjoy the sunset inside, at a table decorated with fresh flowers and white votives in cornflower-blue holders. My companion and I sat by a window and watched people disembark from their boats to come and eat.

We sipped Shiraz and munched on warm focaccia as we waited for five-spiced baby back ribs and a beet and goat cheese napoleon. The six meaty ribs came with a refreshing salad of mint and lightly pickled watermelon slices. My napoleon was an imaginative creation - no puff pastry in sight, it was a little layered sculpture of beet circles, their juice painting warm goat cheese disks bright vermilion. The sweet beets mellowed the sharpness of the cheese.

I had considered ordering the yellowfin tuna sashimi appetizer, but figured this would be redundant with the coriander-crusted tuna. This dish was incredibly delicious; two seared pieces of tuna, their insides rare, lay atop a bed of buttered basmati rice interspersed with asparagus tips and slivers of shiitake. Green cilantro aioli encircled the dish. I finished every bite. My companion ordered the four giant diver scallops with watercress salad and oven-roasted tomatoes.

Fresh whipped cream was the final touch on each of our desserts, which were a zingy little Key Lime tart on an ultra-buttery crust, and a warm chocolate souffle cake accompanied by rum caramel banana pudding.

(I don't know how I had room for two Frisbee-sized banana pancakes at Rachel's Bakery the next morning. Maybe it was the effect of those ocean breezes.)

Hideaway Restaurant: Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island, (631) 583-8900.

A Garden Getaway

I've just returned from a quite delicious trip to lush, green Vermont. You can read about this culinary expedition at Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page.

Ravenous In Rhinebeck

Rhinebeck, a small village by the Hudson, boasts a disproportionate amount of gourmet delights. The Culinary Institute of America has a campus nearby, and some of the alumni stick around to feed the lucky natives. The influence of the school, combined with the wealth of local orchards and farms, ensures a delicious experience for miles around.

My companion took a one-day culinary survey of the town this past Saturday. We began at Terrapin Restaurant (37 Montgomery St., 845-876-3330), which is known for its inventive tapas and extensive wine selection. The creamy roasted garlic soup was zesty and soothing, and I greatly enjoyed a Fontina and onion quesadilla -its crisp flour tortilla oozed with cheese and was topped with a spoonful of salsa. (We felt that the macadamia-crusted calamari were somewhat less successful; the batter was reminiscent of what you would find around an onion ring, and the squid were chewy instead of tender.) We finished with a grilled Nutella sandwich and banana ice cream.

Next it was on to the Olde Hudson (6423 Montgomery St., 845-876-3933), a delightful little gourmet shop with barrels of olives and a variety of chocolates including those made by Jake Novick-Finder, a 14-year-old who trained in Paris and at NYC's own Chanterelle. The Jakery is the name of this precocious teen's truffle company (845-406-2796).

I was deeply impressed by Rhinebeck Health Foods (24 Garden St. 845-876-2005), which is not just for health nuts! In addition to bulk spices, organic pasta, and produce, the store features a wonderful imported cheese section (Mimolette, Fromage D'Affinois, etc.) and organic London Broil. The shop's casual Garden Street Cafe serves up a menu of soups, salads and wraps.

I imagine that no trip to Rhinebeck would be complete without a chewy white chocolate chip/dried apricot cookie at Samuel's of Rhinebeck, Inc. (42 East Market St., 888-726-8351). In addition to coffee and tea, Samuel's sells chocolate-covered plums, Sarabeth's preserves, and an enticing "Hot Fudge Sundae Cone" mix. Just open the "cone," heat up some cream with the chocolate powder, add to your favorite ice cream and sprinkle with the included chocolate chips and marshmallows.

The highlight of our day was a 4-course prix fixe dinner (at $55, a steal) in the Belvedere Mansion. CIA-trained chef Robert Mayerat presides over the French-inspired, constantly changing menu. We loved the shredded duck crostini served with a Brie souffle, the Stilton-crumbled arugula-frisee salad, the Alaskan salmon with shavings of black truffle and horseradish mashed potatoes, and especially the warm chocolate ganache cake accompanied by chocolate ice cream and crisp spun sugar.

If you'd like to experience your own day of deliciousness in Rhinebeck, the annual Taste of Rhinebeck will be held on Monday, March 20th! Call 845-871-3505 for more information.

A Fall Afternoon In Cold Spring

The quaint town of Cold Spring is awash in freshly baked goods! Although NYC is home to several superlative bakeries, there's something about the backdrop of bright autumn leaves that lends extra flavor to a hot muffin. (That't not to say that I don't enjoy my fougasse in the concrete jungle, of course.)

Cold Spring, which boasts a spectacular view of the Hudson River, is just an hour and 15 minutes from the city. The train from Grand Central will deposit you right into the thick of things, and you may want to start your tour with a trip to Provincial Home (80 Main St., 845-265-5360). The European ceramics store offers a wide variety of jams which you'll want to spread on all the baked goods you're soon to enjoy. Sweet jams include red papaya grapefruit and savories include roasted red pepper.

Next, walk over to The Foundry Cafe (55 Main St., 845-265-4504). There, you'll find a changing assortment of cheesecakes (rated "orgasmic" by Hudson Valley Magazine), crumbles (today, it was apple peach blueberry cranberry), muffins and pies. Brownies come both with walnuts and without. (The Foundry is also wonderful in the omelette department... have one with ham and Swiss or pesto and tomato.) Sugar-dusted multi-grain pancakes are served on Saturdays and Sundays only.

The apple cake at the Pig Hill Inn (73 Main St., 845-265-9347) is for guests only, but you might consider lodging there just to be able to feast on it! The Pig Hill Inn is renowned for its excellent breakfast.

Walking further down Main Street, you will notice fresh cheesecakes and pecan pies at the Cold Spring Cafe (129 Main St., 845-265-9471). But wait, there's more! If you take a right on Chestnut Street, you'll soon find a beloved shrine for baked goods aficionados: The Main Course. This small catering company bakes raspberry muffins, biscotti, almond pound cake, chocolate-chip cookies and much more! (I also could not resist their caramelized butternut squash and spinach-watercress vichysoisse.) Pick up one of their excellent packaged salads for the trip home; you might especially enjoy the grilled chicken Caesar or the mesclun with Montrachet.

Since the weather was warm until recently, the leaves in Cold Spring are only changing just now. So there's still time to enjoy the beautiful fall colors!

Get Out Of Town!

Although I've been fending off the winter blues with numerous cups of cocoa, the latest subzero spell has drained me. Noticing my gloominess, my companion suggested that we rejuvenate ourselves with a bed-and-breakfast stay.

Armed with "Frommer's Wonderful Weekends from New York City" and the Internet, I set about finding an inn that was close to the LIRR. During my Web search, I happened upon the homepage of the Mill House Inn. I'd had a couple other places in mind for our excursion, but when I clicked on the Mill House breakfast menu, my mind was made up.

When we arrived, we were greeted by six canisters of cookies, a friendly dog named Corey, and Sylvia, the co-owner of the inn. Sylvia invited us to help ourselves to the cookies, and then led us into the dining room, which offered delicious hot cider, Mill House coffee and Bencheley tea. I accompanied my cider with homemade chocolate-chip and double chocolate-chip cookies. My mood was beginning to lighten (if not my weight). While I was munching, a guest sang the praises of the Mill House morning meal. "It's legendary," she said, "but you can only enjoy it if you're staying here. I'm meeting a real estate broker, and he asked me if he could pretend to be my guest just so he could have the breakfast." I couldn't wait for Sunday morning.

An invigorating scrub with honey-lemongrass soap and a soak in a lavender-scented whirlpool bath were a wonderful prelude to a nap under a goose-down comforter. (Later, we roused ourselves for an exquisite dinner at Della Femina. This restaurant is truly a subject for another post, but I must mention in passing their astonishing banana chocolate-chip croissant bread pudding. I'd never eaten a bread pudding made from croissants, and the flaky dough added extra butter to what was already a decadent treat.)

The next morning, we made sure to wake up by 10, as the brunch at Mill House is served only until 10:30. In the dining room, the four round wooden tables were festooned with poinsettias, and sunlight streamed through the windows. Smiling, I picked up my menu, to be met with the most daunting breakfast decision ever. I craved eggs, but did I want them scrambled with house-cured salmon, mascarpone, Vidalia onions and asparagus, or in egg nog form in the three-slice brioche French toast, or in a crawfish Andouille etoufee, or fried with chorizo, ancho, chipotle and pasillo peppers and tortillas, or how about in a five-cheese (mozzarella, grana padano, mascarpone, ricotta salata and Parmigiano Reggiano) frittata? And if I didn't want eggs, there were blueberry pancakes with Vermont maple syrup, grilled sandwiches, even three kinds of pizza!

With a bit of gracious guidance from Sylvia, we finally decided on the Irish oatmeal, green eggs and ham, scrambled eggs gratin, homefries and toast. We were first served a selection of fresh fruits with Champagne mint honey syrup (excellent over the blackberries).

Then it was time for... the best breakfast I can remember eating. Satisfyingly chewy Irish oatmeal arrived with a stripe of sweet berry compote and hot milk. My eggs gratin was a casserole of soft, Gruyere-gooey scrambled eggs, topped with snipped chives, shredded Parmigiano Reggiano and a sprinkling of breadcrumbs over a layer of caramelized onions and leeks, and then another layer of eggs. My companion's green eggs and ham, also served in a casserole, was quite generous with the Canadian bacon, spinach and Brie. The homemade sweet-tart ketchup was tasty, but the amazing Yukon Gold homefries needed no condiments. The crunchy-soft potato cubes were browned in olive oil and white wine and seasoned with garlic and thyme. And I couldn't even finish the hearty seven-grain toast and Vermont farm butter.

Our spirits lifted, and our bodies nutritionally fortified against any possible weather conditions, we packed up and made a note to return again soon.

The Mill House Inn: 31 North Main St., East Hampton, (631) 324-9766.

Red Jacket Orchards

It's officially autumn, time to go apple picking! But if you can't find the time to go out to Wilkens Fruit & Fir Farm, just head over to the Union Square Greenmarket on a Monday. You'll breathe in a delicious apple aroma as you walk towards the Red Jacket Orchards stand. At the front of the tent, you'll see a table covered with different varieties of apples cut to sample. The apples have mouthwatering names like Honey Crisp and Ginger Gold. Each bin is labeled with a delightful bit of trivia; for example, did you know that the Empire apple was developed in 1966?

Later, after you've purchased a 5-lb. bag of apples (a steal at $3.50), bake me a pie and I'll be right over!

Munching in Montauk (Part 3: Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar)

We concluded our trip with a memorable meal at Oyster Pond.

The oak-paneled walls and floral banquettes provided an atmosphere of relaxed elegance in which to dine. Warm rosemary focaccia dipped in olive oil whetted our appetites. We began with lobster gazpacho, a unique variation on the summer classic. This was the perfect gazpacho; pulpy, not vinegary or watery, and slightly piquant. In between bites of fresh tomato were sweet chunks of lobster. Our waitress raved about Chef Anthony Alinovi's homemade stocks and sauces when we remarked upon the excellence of the soup. I also enjoyed smearing a flaky ginger-spiked spring roll in hot mustard. The miso-based dressing on the accompanying green salad was among the best I've ever tasted.

Entree time! A soy-mirin glaze added a touch of salty-sweetness to my grilled yellowfin tuna. The large hunk of fish was sprinkled with sesame seeds, punctuated with pickled ginger and wasabi and served on a bed of sticky rice and julienned vegetables. My companion opted for a grilled pizza covered with wild mushrooms, onions and black olives.

We ended this wonderful last meal in Montauk with a chocolate soufflé. A scoop of homemade caramel swirl ice cream (they also have malted milk ball and chocolate caramel swirl) and ribbons of mango and raspberry coulis were fun to mix with the inner chocolate center of the cake.

Oyster Pond Restaurant & Bar: 4 S. Elmwood, Montauk, (631) 668-4200.

Munching in Montauk (Part 2: Fudge N' Stuff, etc.)

In between that first lovely meal at the Shagwong and the final one at Oyster Pond (which I shall detail shortly), I also thoroughly enjoyed:

Fudge N' Stuff (The Plaza, 631-668-4724): Every beach town seems to have a homemade fudge shop. Most of my childhood summers were spent gorging at Candy Kitchen in Ocean City, MD, so I felt right at home at Fudge N' Stuff. This little shop is chock full of such flavors as Cookies & Cream, Almond Joy and Mud Pie. It's also full of smiles!

Mr. John's Pancake and Steak House (Main St., 631-668-2383): All that laying out in the sun can make a person hungry. Sunbathers should carbo-load with a morning plate of pancakes at Mr. John's. This comfy diner serves many varieties of griddlecakes: chocolate-chip, coconut/coconut syrup, cinnamon-raisin... I opted for some whole-wheat banana pecan cakes, which seemed even larger than the plate they arrived on.

Montauk Bake Shoppe (The Plaza, 631-668-2439): It's no wonder that this bakery has been around since the 50's. The jelly-filled croissants, tomato red onion flatbreads, and lobster-shaped cookies render it a regional, if not national, treasure.

Gosman's Fish Market (Gosman's Dock, 631-668-5645): Although almost everything at Gosman's Restaurant left me cold (except for the sherry-spiked lobster bisque), I was mightily impressed by the gorgeous fish market in the complex, which sells any fish or seafood one's heart might desire, including gorgeous lobsters.

Munching in Montauk (Part 1: Shagwong Restaurant)

As the temperature rose this week, I was seized by an uncontrollable desire to be near the ocean. Most of all, I longed to eat fresh fish and seafood by the water. With visions of baked littlenecks in my head, I hopped on a train to Montauk with a companion.

Although we were to enjoy many delicious meals over the course of the trip, the first and last meals stand out in particular: a dinner at the 30-yr-old Shagwong Restaurant, and one at the charmingly rustic Oyster Pond.

Neon fish and lobsters announced the presence of the salt-of-the-earth Shagwong. Once inside, I was captivated by the nautical atmosphere, and even more so by the giant plates of food. The menu overwhelmed me... the wild Atlantic salmon special tempted me. I finally decided on the yellowfin tuna special; unfortunately, so did my companion. Not wanting to miss the opportunity to try more than one entree, I ordered the broiled local fluke. Each dish came with a choice of codfish cake, beef vegetable soup, green salad or cole slaw. We ordered the salad, and settled on the mussels for an appetizer.

We were astonished when a bowl of 40 large mussels arrived at our table. How on earth were we going to finish this "appetizer"? Dipping the plump, sweet mollusks into our garlic white wine sauce, we did manage to make a dent in the pile of large black shells. I also paid some attention to my delicious salad of tomatoes, red onions, field greens, carrots, radicchio, watercress and cucumbers.

No sooner had we signaled our satiety than our entrees were served. My perfectly moist fluke was slathered liberally with lemon butter and served with a toothsome long-grain rice pilaf and steamed carrots and string beans. I eyed my companion's entree with envy: seared, pepper-crusted rare tuna over greens with ponzu sauce, wasabi and pickled ginger. Fortunately, he agreed to share.

Almost stuffed beyond the ability to breathe, I nevertheless asked what was available for dessert. Apple crumb pie? Key lime pie? Cheesecake? The warm molten chocolate cake was my natural choice; Shagwong's denser-than-usual rendition was enough to satisfy both of us, at least until tomorrow.

More about the trip coming soon!

Shagwong Restaurant: Main St., Montauk, (631) 668-3050.

Vacation On The Vineyard

On Martha's Vineyard this week, I happened to pick up this week's New Yorker, where I found my thoughts mirrored in Calvin Trillin's paean to classic and simple foods: "What Happened To Brie And Chablis?"

If you don't have a copy of the magazine, here is a snippet of Trillin's witty poem on page 69:

"You miss, let's say, trout amandine?
Take hope from some menus I've seen:
Fondue has been spotted of late
And -- yes, to my near disbelief --
Tartare not from tuna but beef.
They all may return. Just you wait."

Now, I am as big a fan of squash blossoms and huitlacoche as anyone, but I still find comfort in old-fashioned recipes and simple ingredients. This week, I indulged in locally-caught smoked bluefish from Larsen's Fish Market of Menemsha, some downright fantastic brick-oven pizza at Lattanzi's, a breakfast of poached eggs over cayenne-spiked crab cakes at The Daggett House (Closed as of 2004), a wonderful linguine with garlicky white clam sauce at Chesca's (oh, the visceral pleasure of those impeccably fresh littlenecks), and rich creamy fudge at Murdick's (one variety made with Cape Cod cranberries).

I also conducted my own informal fish-and-chips contest, involving Nancy's Harborview Restaurant, Seafood Shanty, The Wharf Restaurant and the winner: The Black Dog Tavern. The Black Dog's superior rendition was a plate of steaming moist fish in a crispy cornmeal crust over a heap of French fries, served with a side of homemade slaw.

When I recover from this week of excess, I will be ready to sample more of the Big Apple's glorious offerings! Stay tuned for new reviews.

Wilkens Fruit & Fir Farm

The apple harvest is over, but you can still enjoy its fruits at this charming Yorktown Heights orchard. The two large sheds on the premises house Tricia’s Treats and the Farm Market. At Tricia’s, you can feast on apple strudel and drink hot cider. Also of note are the fresh cider doughnuts and steaming hot, flaky-crusted apple pies.

If you prefer to make your own apple concoctions, you can go over to the Farm Market, which sells ten different varieties of apples. The spacious shelves of the Market are also laden with apple butter and apple cider.

The trees that line the Taconic Parkway are in full fall splendor. A nature-lover in my car informed me that the amount of sugar in the leaves controls the vibrancy of the colors. (I certainly feel more vibrant with sugar in my veins as well.)

Wilkens Fruit & Fir Farm: 1335 White Hill Road, Yorktown Heights. (914) 245-5111.